In the heart of Bomdila, a quaint town nestled amidst the verdant hills of Arunachal Pradesh’s West Kameng district, two vibrant markets—Hilltop and Amma—form the bustling nucleus of local life. Each market, distinct yet harmoniously intertwined, captures the essence of a community where tradition and modernity coexist in a delicate dance. As dawn breaks over the misty hills, the markets stir into action, greeting the day with a promise of vibrancy and connection.
Women from the surrounding villages begin their trek to the markets, their colourful shawls fluttering like bright banners against the rising sun. They arrive with baskets and bags brimming with fresh produce and homemade goods. Their faces, etched with the marks of weather and time, shine with a mix of determination and joy—mothers steadfastly providing for their families and friends exchanging warm greetings in a community that thrives on connection.
The air is a medley of enticing scents: the earthy aroma of fresh vegetables, the sweet fragrance of local fruits, and the spicy tang of traditional snacks. Each stall tells its own story, from the vibrant display of handwoven bamboo baskets to the neatly arranged rows of ripe oranges and glistening red and green chilies. Hilltop and Amma markets are sensory feasts, with foods like spicy snacks, sweets, and traditional dishes adding to the rich tapestry of aromas and flavours.
Seema Leah, a third-generation vendor, manages a stall at the Hilltop market filled with exotic vegetables, chilies, and fruits. Her stall is a colourful testament to the diversity of produce from Arunachal Pradesh and neighbouring Assam. “Men help out when they’re free, but the market is truly a realm of women,” she notes with pride. For Seema, her stall is not just a place of business but a continuation of a family legacy.
There are many similar markets all over the North Eastern region which are run by women and which are thriving. However, these markets in Bomdila have a history of its own and has been part of its cultural landscape. “The women’s market in Bomdila serves as more than just a commercial hub; it is a vibrant cultural and social centre,” says Dolma who runs a nearby shop which sells maze. “This market is a living repository of the region’s traditions and customs. Many of the products sold, such as traditional textiles and handcrafted items, reflect the unique cultural heritage of the Arunachal Pradesh tribes,” says a proud Seema. The involvement and belief in the market makes it a place where these traditions are not only preserved but also celebrated and passed on to future generations.
According to local of Bomdila, these two markets “play a critical role in empowering local women economically and socially.” The markets provide a platform for these women to showcase their skills and earn a livelihood, contributing to their self-sufficiency and confidence. For some, it’s a means of supporting their families; for others, it’s an opportunity to pursue their passions.
The market is also a reflection of the local community’s relationship with its environment. Many of the vendors are involved in sustainable practices, such as growing organic vegetables or using eco-friendly materials for their crafts. This commitment to environmental stewardship is evident in the way products are sourced and sold, aligning with the broader ethos of living in harmony with nature that is prevalent in Arunachal Pradesh.
Many of these women make a living by selling her homemade pickles at the market and they have been doing this for over a decade. The stalls, adorned with jars of fiery red and golden-yellow pickles, is a testament to their culinary skill. Each of these culinary has its own story to tell and about the women of this far off remote town up in the hills of Arunachal Pradesh not far from the international border with China. Their efforts have now also began to attract curious visitors from outside wanting not just to buy these pickles but also to learn some of the culinary skills.
Nearby, Yeshi, a young woman at the Hilltop market, proudly showcases her collection of handicrafts, clothes, and traditional attires. Her stall is more than a place of commerce; it’s a canvas where her dreams and creativity come to life. “I hope to expand my business and open a small boutique one day,” she shares, her voice brimming with hopeful excitement. Yeshi’s stall, filled with her laughter and stories, exemplifies the spirit of both markets.
Karma, Yeshi’s cousin, sells churpi—a hard, cheese-like product made from yak or cow milk. “These are like pieces of my heart,” she says, her passion palpable. Churpi, a cherished delicacy, is made by boiling milk, curdling it with a natural coagulant, and then fermenting and drying it. For Karma, selling churpi is a meaningful way to connect with her community and share a beloved tradition.
The markets are also a place where personal connections are forged. Every morning, the women gather to exchange stories and sip tea from small, steaming cups. Their camaraderie goes beyond trade; it’s a shared experience of struggle, joy, and solidarity. They celebrate each other’s successes, offer support during hardships, and stand together as a close-knit community.
Generational interactions enrich the markets further. Older women, custodians of traditional knowledge and skills, work alongside younger women who bring fresh ideas and energy. This blend of tradition and innovation ensures that the markets remain vibrant and relevant while preserving their cultural heritage.
Despite their success, both markets face challenges. Vendors often deal with fluctuating prices, competition from larger markets, and occasional shortages of supplies. However, their resilience and adaptability help them navigate these obstacles. “Community support and solidarity are crucial for overcoming difficulties and maintaining the market’s vibrancy,” says Khrupa, who earns around Rs. 5000 a month selling fresh maize.
As interest in off-the-beaten-path destinations grows, the Hilltop and Amma markets have started attracting tourists. This influx brings economic benefits but also requires careful management to preserve the markets’ character and local culture. Balancing tourism with tradition remains a priority for the community.
As the sun reaches its zenith and the markets reach their peak, the Hilltop and Amma markets stand as vibrant mosaics of colour, sound, and scent. For the people of Bomdila, these markets are more than just places of trade; they are living embodiments of their culture, resilience, and spirit. The Borderlens team’s visit underscored the markets’ role as cherished community hubs, reflecting their multifaceted significance beyond mere commerce.
